The Holiday Tree Lights Up for the First Time After the Outbreak of the Conflict

Throughout a two-year period during the conflict in Gaza, every festive public event marking the holiday season were cancelled in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where Christians believe the birth of Jesus occurred.

However, following a recent truce, the holy city decided that now the festivities would make a comeback, as symbolised by the illumination of its traditional, large holiday tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.

"We have endured two difficult years without celebration; no holiday, no jobs, no income," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and tourism had fallen to nothing."

He acknowledges that the idea of resuming celebrations faced some controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – including for those in its small Christian population, who often have relatives in Bethlehem.

"Some may say it's not appropriate and others say it's appropriate," the mayor notes. "However, in my heart, I believed that this was the right thing to do because Christmas must never be halted or abandoned. This is the light of hope for us."

A Spark of Festivity Returns

Locals – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – take photographs before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a handful of international visitors.

Vibrant lights now adorn the streets and there are signs advertising holiday markets and children's parties.

"We are delighted to see the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its true spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This is where everything began, therefore here is where we can convey a message globally about what Christmas truly should be about. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."

Economic Hopes and Difficulties

The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light holiday trees in the coming days. Local hotels – which have remained mostly vacant for the past two years – are seeing a rise of bookings from Arab citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.

A visitor from Russia, named Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think every person should visit at least once during their lifetime," she states.

"I wish a lot of people will return soon because it's sad without many tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is there are no long lines – you can come and experience more. On my prior visit you had to wait in line for hours at least."

For now, the souvenir stores dotted around Bethlehem experience scant trade, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the Fourth Century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the conflict, it was typically packed with visitors.

"This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no livelihood," laments a guide named Hamza. "We hope to see individuals returning like before: from Europe, the Middle East, America, Latin American and everywhere. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."

The Persistent Economic Impact

Over the last two years, joblessness has soared within Bethlehem. Since the lethal attacks led by Hamas in southern Israel during October 2023 which triggered the war, many thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and Israeli settlements to work.

Meanwhile, government employees have received only partial wages by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs parts of the West Bank. The PA relies on tax income collected by Israel, which it is currently holding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.

Israel says it is holding the funds because the PA makes financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that encourage attacks on Israelis. The PA – facing international pressure to make reforms – says it has recently changed its social welfare system.

An Austere Holiday

The grim economic situation implies that for numerous Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public festivities as well as religious ceremonies, it will be an austere Christmas.

At the edge of Manger Square, a few customers are waiting to buy sizzling balls of falafel from several shops.

"We are getting ready for the holiday after one of our most challenging times as Palestinians and as Christians," says Alaa Salameh, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery which has seen its revenues collapse. He says that recently many families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional food.

"The faithful will attempt to mark the occasion but according to their situation," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festive event or a show or similar, he doesn't have the funds to expend for this celebration."

Prayers for Peace and Prosperity

Within the grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a local woman accompanies a small Indian tour group, bending down near a silver star that indicates the location where tradition states Jesus was born and igniting a candle nearby.

With tensions still high throughout the area, people in Bethlehem say they are hoping for peace – and hoping for visitors to return to the location where it is believed Christmas began.

Cynthia Mcdowell
Cynthia Mcdowell

An avid skier and travel writer with a passion for exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations and sharing practical tips.